Fergus Henderson

Melt the butter in a pan, stir in the flour, and let this cook together until it smells biscuity but is not browning. Add the mustard powder and cayenne pepper, stir in the Worcestershire sauce and the Guinness, then gently melt in the cheese. When it’s all of one consistency, remove from the heat, pour out into a shallow container, and allow to set. It will keep happily in the fridge for a couple of weeks in this state.

Take each piece of bread and toast on both sides. Allow to cool just a little, then cover one side with the rarebit mixture to about 1cm thick – if you find that it doesn’t spread with ease, press it on with your fingers. Put on a baking sheet and place under the grill until golden and bubbling – grilling to just beyond your comfort threshold, to allow the flour to cook out.

First make Horseradish Sauce: take 1/2 a root of fresh horseradish, peeled, grated and sprinkled with the juice of 1/2 a lemon to avoid discolouring. Mix with 300ml of creme fraiche and season to taste. (You now have the most nose-tinglingly delicious, snow-white foil for rich delights such as fresh grilled mackerel, beetroot or ox heart. Use fearlessly.)

For Horsey House, take 2 parts Vinaigrette to 1 part Horseradish Sauce and mix together.

A delightful salad can be made by tossing blanched runner beans in the dressing, to serve with smoked eel, herring or other smoked oily fish.